Merida, Miller and Mayan Muse

So often we grab at but do not acknowledge serendipity.
I am in the midst of one such occurrence, holed up in Merida in the Yucatan and mid way into “Henry Miller on Writing”. Serendipity is in action.
Quoting Henry from time to time will only accentuate my experience so know that a real writer’s words can be found in this series. It all is voiced starting with ‘The Love Puppet Theater’ on this blog.

Sitting in the airport, having said ‘goodbye’ to Joy (although I find that I don’t say ‘goodbye’ to Joy, she and I know our union is not cleaved by distance), I am totally alone. Good place to find ‘alone’, airports. It is code Orange you know. No one is to be trusted.

Back to this trip…

“the real problem is not one of getting on with one’s neighbor or of contributing to development of one’s country, but of discovering one’s destiny, of making a life in accord with the deep-centered rhythm of the cosmos. To be able to use the word cosmos boldly, to use the word soul, to deal in things “spiritual” -and to shun definitions, alibis, proofs, duties. Paradise is everywhere and every road, if one continues along it far enough, leads to it. One can only go forward by going backward and then sideways and then up and then down. There is no progress: there is perpetual movement, displacement, which is circular, spiral, endless. Every man has his own destiny: the only imperative is to follow it, to accept it, no matter where it lead him.” Henry Miller

I’m glad to find my ‘excuses’ in the thoughts of writers such as Henry Miller!

Here at the Hostal Faby I decide to sleep on a lower bunk. Long way to fall from top bunks, hard floor. Celestine, the gentleman of age, that watches out at night is the only person I see and talk to (at night). We get along immediately. During daytime Adrian mans the front desk. A young man, studying in his doctoral work, is a Mayan from a nearby pueblo. He is not totally Mayan but half Korean.

My days incur walking, walking and more walking! Checked out the English Library and found a place to upgrade my quarters, Yucatan Vista Inn. More expensive but near all that happens (as far as I know, which is very little).

Lucky for me it is the ‘Festival Anual de las Artes’ and the month of December is full of free dance, visual arts, music and much more. too many to catch them all. I went to two modern dance performances at one of the many fancy local theaters, a troupe from Asheville, Tenn. and another troupe from France. The French dance troupe was great. Especially the last arrangement with black background, ragged white costumes complete with white dust. Impressive! Picked up tickets to an upcoming concert by Maria Teresa. Have no idea about her talents but if she sings half as good as she looks I will enjoy it.

I spend much time walking streets crowded with locals (not too many tourist looking humans here) this busy Friday night. Music, food, and more everywhere. These people love to get out. Shared a conversation with a few locals…some workers, some street vendors, a lady of the evening (I presume, due to her quick interest in me) but all friendly. Merida has, as is the reputation, friendly people.

I walk for blocks (sometimes totally lost) without fear. That is just not the vibe here.

So much walking/exploring early in the day calls for a nap. Then up for the night life (at least the ‘early’ night life for me)
I enjoy a XX on a balcony overlooking the zocalo. I can’t recall any place in the States that people get out in such numbers almost every night of the week. Performers entertaining, music, crowded sidewalk cafes, vendors, horse drawn carriages, walking, talking…people enjoying life day by day.

Merida’s historic center of town has many fancy large theaters and so many art galleries I hope to see at least half of them in two weeks.